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One of the most spectacular adventures in Irian Jaya is climbing the glacier covered Puncak Jaya or Carstensz Pyramid. Located in the Mount Lorentz Reserve, it is the highest mountain on the island of New Guinea, on the greater Australian continent and in Oceania.

It is the highest point between the Himalaya and the Andes and the highest island peak in the world. , down to formidably steeps and rugged valleys, many types of forests to the freshwater swamps, and plains and torrid mangrove swamps on the South coast. This is one of the only three places in the world where glaciers can be found at equatorial latitudes.

One can compare the Carstenz massif with the Marmolada except that here ice and snow lay on the south side. The glacier were arranged like an enormous horseshoe around the Carstensz Pyramid, which stood like a narrow knife cut off to the south of the main crest. It is one of the three equatorial glaciers in the world and they all are fast disappearing due to global warming. In the range between the Pyramid and main crest lay two valleys, separated by a rock ridge. The rock consisted of grey limestone, cut by innumerable gullies, and it offered firm holds.

The carstensz summit climb was exciting. It was a mixture of free - climbing, jumaring and scrambling with moderate difficulty, 5.8 for short steps, but most of the climbing is scrambling.

The standard route is up the north face and along the summit ridge, which is all hard rock surface. This carstenz pyramid route follows a series of gullies up the north face for 500m of solid rock before breaking out on the ridge. Riddled with notches, the summit ridge undulates for half a kilometer from this point to pitch and leave a rope fixed to jumar on our return. On our descent we will rappel short distance and down climb most of the way.

The rock is extremely good, rarely loose, and always provides good friction even in wet weather, and it is very abrasive so it necessary to wear gloves while climbing.

It is important that you have basic rock climbing and are comfortable with rappelling and jumaring.


Summiter Carstensz
SINCE 1998

Antonio Garcia
Albert Bosch
Alison Levine
Ana Czerwinska
Andries Botha
Angelo Sousa
Anna Lichota
Benyamin Mazin
Bernard Voyer
Cao Jun
Carsten Pedersen
Charles Mace
Chiang, Hsiu-Chen
Christina Robles
Constantin Lacatusu
Daniel Theuerkauf
Daren Lindgren
David Larson
Dean Staples
Denise Fetjek
Dirk Stephen
Erick Weihenmayer
Eun On So
Felix Eduardo Sanchez
Francisco Briongos
Francois Bernard
Francois Langlois
Gary Parker
Geoffrey Robb
George Atkinson
Giuseppe Pompili
Hans Florine
Harry Kikstra
Helme Suuk
Henrik Kristiansen
Hiroyuki Kuraoka
Hsieh Yin Shu
Ignacio Amando
Igor Prinzyuk
Inna Lai
Ishikawa Tomiyasu
Ivar Lai
J F Paulsen
Jaan Reimand
Jaime Viñals
Jamie Clarke
Jason Huang
Jeffrey Warden
Jin Fei Bao
Joby Ogwyn
Joe Wolfgruber
John Crellin
John Dodelande
Jonathan Atkinson
Jose Maria Alvarez
José Mijares
Junichi Shinozaki
Kees 't Hooft
Khalid Altayer
Khoo Swee Chiow
Krzysztof Gardyna
Leszek Cichy
Liang Kun
Lu Zhonglin
Magdalena Kowalska
Marck Gunlogson
Mario Trimeri
Mark Sedon
Martin Adams
Martin Isak
Mayk Schega
Meagan McGrath
Michal Rafal Kowalski
Mikel Alvarez
Namit Rawat
Nikhu Ram Choudhary
Nikki Hoffman
Nikolaus Mangitsis
Olof Eric Sundstorm
Patricio Crausaz
Paul Fetjek
Paul Niels
Pedro Ruiz
Philippe Gatta
Phillip Pearson
Ramesh Chandra-Triphathi
Ramon Diz
Rauno Pukonen
Rick Keller
Rishi Sagar
Rob Hart
Robert Creswell
Robert Gutrhie
Robert Hart
Robert Huygh
Robert Scull
Rupert Heider
Samantha Larson
Sharon Crawford
Soeren Smidt
Takenori Yoshida
Timothy Bird
Toivo Sarmet
Troy Aupperle
Victor Saunders
Vlado Haluska
Wang Shi
Wim Smets
Wu Yu Lung
Yi Sung In
Young Mi Kim
Zed Al Refai

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