Carstensz Pyramid Route
Carstensz Pyramid, composed of limestone, has seven faces.
Several routes ascend Carstensz. The Harrer or Normal Route is
the usual route up the mountain. Its ascent and descent usually takes
12 to 15 hours. It ascends mostly solid rock up the north face to a long
jagged ridge, which is followed to the summit. The ridge poses the most
difficult climbing sections, requiring technical climbing skills up to
5.9 depending on the exact route taken. Commercial trips usually fix ropes
over all these sections so less experienced climbers can climb the rope
The other two routes are the East Ridge, a long scrambling route, and The American Direct, which is a long steep climb directly up the North Face to the summit. This route offers 5.10 climbing on steep limestone that is difficult to protect due to the absence of crack system. The final headwall below the summit is the most difficult section.
Good thing that you have several choices of routes to take to reach the summit, which is considered as the most technically challenging mountain of the Seven Summits. The different Climbing Routes give you almost every kind of Climbing challenge you need. Do you want the high level of difficulty thrown at you by the East Ridge or would you prefer a more straightforward Route? The choice is yours.
We lead our clients to the top of the Carstensz Pyramid using the simpler route, the normal one. Climbing the summit of the Carstensz Pyramid using the normal route takes about 12 15 hours including return to the Base Camp. It is therefore a one-day trip. We can use the remaining days to climb other summits, Puncak Jaya, which has a glacier right on the summit. Despite the fact that the Carstensz Pyramid and Nga Pulu lies almost on the equator, you can even go skiing.
Carstensz New Route
on August 2008, Hans Florine and Charley Mace made New Climbing Route to Carstensz